Italy & Switzerland

Thanks to some expiring flight vouchers left over from COVID lockdowns Nick, Sean, and Tim set aside a week from busy schedules to explore Northern Italy and the Swiss Alps.

Day 1 · Arrival in Venice, and generally Europe

9/15/2024

Day 1Marco Polo Intl. Airport → San Marco's Square

Arrival in Venice

Landing in Venice at 9am on Sunday 9/15 after nearly 24 hours of traveling to get there, the group immediately headed to the hotel to drop off our bags and shower. A handful of water taxis and shuttles later and we arrived at the JW Marriott where we learned that we'd been upgraded to a suite on this private island resort. Not wanting to waste time we headed back to Venice proper in the early afternoon and kicked off the trip by getting some euros and then afternoon tea at cafe Florian, the oldest continuously operating coffee house in Italy.

Nick & Tim in the vaporetto into town from the airportCrowded side street off of San Marco's SquareA street lined with designer shops, facing towards the Chiesa Parrocchiale di San MoisèAfternoon tea at Cafe FlorianSan Marco's Square facing the Basilica di San MarcoNick & Tim in front of the Basilica di San MarcoPizzeria sign in a narrow Venecian street between San Marco's Square and Rialto BridgeLooking down the busy street under the clock tower in San Marco's SquareStickers in a tucked away offshoot from a Venecian streetNick on a Venecian payphoneA couple standing in the plaza between the Basilica di San Marco and the clocktowerA group of tourists and a woman in a straw hat against the north face of the Basilica di San Marco

Day 1Doge's Palace

Exploring Doge's Palace

Following our rule-of-thumb of "have at least one appointment to make everyday", we set off for our tour of the "Hidden Treasures" of the Doge's Palace. This tour took us through non-publically accesible areas of the palace including the, now empty, treasure room, the private quarters of the Doge, and the private chapel of the Doge. At the end of the tour we were released into the public sections of the palace with recommended things to see from our tour guide, leading us to see the various chambers where governance of the nation of Venice took place.

Nick & Tim silhouetted against the marble balcony of the Doge's palace facing the bell towerNick standing between the red marble pillars, where the Doge would address the people of VeniceThe balcony from which the Doge addressed the people of VeniceThe balcony where the Doge would address the people of Venice, featuring the 2 red marble pillars between which the Doge would standStatues representing the Doge, the city of Venice (the lion), and the virtues the Doge is to embodyExterior view of the Doge's private quarters in the palaceMarble busts of past Doges with the bell tower looming over themA pre-schism rooftop ornament of the cross atop a dome of the Basilica di San MarcoView from the Chamber of the Grand CouncilA view of the rooftops of Venice near Doge's palaceA view of the rooftops of Venice near the Doge's palaceSouthern face of the Basilica di San Marco, featuring elaborate marble work, gilded mosaics, and stained glassNick climbing the stairs of an exterior balcony of the Doge's private quartersMural on the ceiling of the Doge's private chapel, depicting the priorities of the Doge
Chamber of the Grand Council
Chamber of the Grand Council
Murals on the ceiling of the Chamber of the SenateSean being as tall as the corridors in the Doge's palace
Gilded metalwork above the stairs leading to the 2nd floor of the Doge's palaceA 17th century lanturn used to light Doge's palaceThe courtyard of the prison of VeniceStonework on the exterior of the Basilica di San Marco where the Basilica meets the Doge's palaceThe view of the South side of the Basilica di San Marco from within the courtyard of the Doge's palace

Day 1San Marco's Square → Rialto Bridge

Rialto

Finishing up at the Doge's Palace nearing sunset, we left San Marco's Square for Rialto Bridge. Passing under the clock tower to meander through the narrow streets of Venice we reached the telltale staircases and market stalls of Rialto Bridge. After contending with swaths of other tourists with the same idea as us, we grabbed some pictures at the top of the bridge over the Grand Canal in the midst of golden hour. Feeling the effects of not laying in a bed for about 36 hours at that point we turned back towards San Marco's Square, stopping at Ristorante dallo Zio for a dinner of Italian pizza. After dinner we turned in for an early night.

Statues depicting the values of Venice, seen from within the courtyard of the Doge's palaceThe docks of San Marco's Square, facing the Basilica di Santa Maria in the distanceThe face of the clock tower, denoting the time, month, and lunar phaseThe clock tower of VeniceA row of governmental buildings which make up a side of San Marco's square, framed with the bell tower on the rightThe bell tower of VeniceThe archway underneath the clock tower of Venice, facing down the streetA narrow street in Venice near sunsetSmall canal with gondolier Looking up a narrow street towards a stone turretLooking up the street towards Rialto BridgeFacing up Rialto Bridge where shop stalls are visible Group selfie on Rialto Bridge
View of the Grand Canal from atop Rialto Bridge, facing WestView of the Grand Canal from atop Rialto Bridge, facing eastView of the Grand Canal from atop Rialto Bridge, facing WestView of the Grand Canal from atop Rialto Bridge, facing westA caligraphy and marbled paper storeSan Marco's Square at dusk, lit by many candles along its second storyA band playing for evening patrons of a cafe in San Marco's Square

Day 2 · Full day to explore Venice

9/16/2024

Day 2San Marco's Square

Morning Tours

After starting off the morning with an impressive breakfast buffet, we kept with our "one appointment a day" rule with an 11am tour of the clock tower in San Marco's Square scheduled. Hopping on the shuttle back to Venice proper we arrived in San Marco's Square to discover that "Acqua Alta" (lit. high water) had begun which caused segments of the square to be flooded. Given that the acqua alta is a regular occurance for the city, our tour guide was not deterred as we made our way from one corner of the square to the other before beginning our climb of the clock tower. The clock tower tour provided us great views of the various mechanisms of the clock, as well as the square from the clock's balconies, and the city's skyline from the tower's roof.

The gardens of the Isola delle Rose where the JW was locatedVerdant arches in a garden of Isola delle RoseThe water tower used on Isola delle RoseThe private taxi docks of the JWSean standing on the docks of the JW, taking a picture
Utility boat fitted with crane for loading items on to/off of docksNick taking a picture of mePrivate boat pulling up to the docks of the JWA shuttle following the route back from Venice towards the JW docksThe shuttle boat that took us from the Isola delle Rose to Venice properInterior of the shuttle between the JW and VeniceExposure test of my bag on the shuttle to VeniceThe Hotel Cipriani as seen on our ride in from the JWThe bell tower of Venice as viewed from the docks of San Marco's SquareStreet along the Grand Canal near the Doge's palaceThe bell tower in San Marco's SquareThe Acqua Alta beginning in San Marco's SquareSean's shoes standing in the Acqua AltaAcqua Alta in San Marco's Square, starting to encroach on a cafe's seatingView of the face of the Basilica di San MarcoThe minutes wheel of the "digital" piece of the clock towerThe hours wheel of the "digital" piece of the clock towerStatues of the 3 wise men, part of the procession of the clock tower2 of the statues used in the procession march of the clock towerDiagram of the mechanisms of the clock towerCounterweights of the mechanism of the clock towerThe actual cogs of the mechanism of the clock towerDiagrams of the faces of the clock towerRooftops adjacent to the clock towerView of San Marco's Square from the balcony of the clock tower, Acqua Alta continuing to progressLooking down on San Marco's Square from atop the clock tower
Nick stepping out to the balcony of the clock towerThe Venecian skyline from the balcony of the clock towerStatue of "the past" which strikes the clock tower's bell 2 minutes before the hourBoth of the bell-striking statues of the clock towerStatues of "the present" which strikes the clock tower's bell on the hourSan Marco's Square, the base of the bell tower, and the pillars where executions would be held as seen from atop the clock towerSean with the backdrop of the Venician skyline as seen from atop the clock towerNick & Tim with the top of the Basilica di San Marco in the backgroundNick & Tim with the backdrop of the Venecian skyline as seen from atop the clock towerRooftops of Venice as seen from atop the clock tower, facing westRooftops to the east of the clock tower as seen from the clock tower balconyTim on the balcony of the clock tower, overlooking rooftops of VeniceThe face of the Basilica di San Marco facing towards the Grand CanalNick & Tim taking pictures from the balconies of the clock towerThe face of the clock towerThe Acqua Alta in San Marco's SquareSean walking through the Acqua Alta in San Marco's Square, holding his camera and water bottle
Sean standing in the Acqua Alta
Acqua Alta in front of the Museo CorrerSean taking a selfie in a mirror

Day 2Fornace Venier, Murano

Murano Glass Factory

One of the best known exports from Venice is Venecian glass, which is a slight misnomer as glass is actually made on the neighboring island of Murano after glass blowers nearly burnt Venice down. The JW was happy to coordinate a private tour of Fornace Venier for us, a tour which began with demonstrations of forming a pitcher and molding a glass figurine of a horse in less than a minute. After the demonstrations we were shown Venier's extensive glass showroom, featuring a wide array of intricate handmade glass work.

Glass blower, blowing to form a bulb to shape into a pitcherGlass blower with initial bead of molten glass, about to add coloring before forming the body of a pitcherGlass blower forming a bead of molten glassGlass blower forming the body of a pitcherGlass blowing demonstration, making a vase, preparing to attach the handleGlass blower placing flash paper inside of a just-completed pitcherGlass blower begining to form a horse from a bead of molten glassGlass blower forming a horse out of molten glass by handGlass blower finishing creating a glass-blown horseGlass blower watching flash-paper on a fresh glass sculptureGlass blower watching flash-paper on a fresh glass sculptureGlass sconces in the shape of grapesVenician glass-blown horses, said to denote a master of glass blowing
Glass vases in the style of honeycomb with glass bumblebees on each cellA glass sculpture covered in butterfliesRainbow mosaic glassRainbow mosaic glassA variety of vases and sculptures on display in the glass factoryThe view off the back of the boat from Fornace Venier, the glass factory we touredView from the back of the boat from the glass factoryNick taking a picture of me on the boat back from the glass factoryGroup selfie on the boat to Murano to tour a glass factory
Sean in the boat coming back from the glass factory, taking a picture

Day 2Basilica di San Marco

Inside of the Basilica di San Marco

Having seen the neighboring Doge's Palace the day prior and sporting appropriately modest clothing for such a venue, we decided to stop in the Basilica di San Marco. After paying the small admission fee we stepped inside and were greeted with perhaps the single most ornate building I have ever been inside of. The walls were covered with golden displays which grew to cover the entire ceiling along with a litany of intricate marble carvings and mosaics.

The gilded mosaics of the interior of the Basilica di San Marco
The impressive vaulted ceilings of the Basicila di San Marco
Interior of the Basicila di San MarcoMosaic ceiling inside of the Basicila di San MarcoStructures inside of the Basicila di San Marco

Day 2Streets around San Marco Square, Isola delle Rose, Acqua Pazza

Evening Exploration

After the Basilica, the group was ready to grab a bite. Before venturing off into the winding streets off of San Marco's Square we stopped at a Venecian postbox to mail off some postcards we had picked up from Rialto the day prior. Wandering the streets we eventually came to stop at Al Teatro Goldoni for some spritzes, bruchetta, and mussels. After our late lunch we headed back to the hotel to explore the vast gardens on the property before sunset. We finished the night at Acqua Pazza, an italian restaurant specializing in seafood - a restaurant that I had actually been to a year prior.

Sean & Nick getting ready to mail the postcards from Venice
Mailboxes for the city of Venice
A gondola about to traverse under a bridgeA quiet canal lined by colorful buildingsA Venecian street, looking down on the Hotel A La CommediaJoro spider weaving a web among large bushes of rosemary in the JW gardensNick standing on the south-east tip of the Isola delle Rose, facing Lido at duskView of an oncoming storm, facing out over the Grand CanalA structure extending old brick ruinsView off the southwest corner of Isola delle Rose of storms passing byMy dinner at Acqua PazzaGondolas parked for the night near the Hard Rock cafe of Venice

Day 3 · Departing Venice for Como

9/17/2024

Day 3Venezia St. Lucia Station

Leaving Venice

Tuesday saw us packing up from Venice to prepare to head to mainland Italy. After another great breakfast we headed to the water taxi dock of the hotel and shared a taxi with another group bound for the train station. After successfully catching our first train, we arrived in Milan only to discover that our next train would be delayed by an unannounced amonut due to a station further up the line's ceiling collasping on a man (he was fine according to news). We eventually made our connection and reached Como.

The private taxi docks of the JWThe private taxi docks of the JWA woman walking on the way to Venice's train stationNick & Tim waiting on the steps of the train station in Venice

Day 3Como, IT

Exploring Como

Between only spending one night in Como, arriving after 4pm, and arriving a week after the shoulder season for the city began we took it easy in Como. Once we dropped our bags off at our AirBNB we hit the town, enjoying walking along the southern shore of the famous Lake Como in search of the Brunate funicular.

The plaza, and small portion of the cafe outside of our AirBNBStreet next to our AirBNB lined with grocers, cafes, and restaurantsTree lined sidewalkThe statue "Life Electric" jutting out into Lake ComoThe Marina of ComoDocks along the shore of Lake ComoPier reaching out into Lake ComoSidewalk along the southern shores of Lake ComoGroup of four German tourists walking along the shoreA street along the shore of Lake ComoA woman watching foot trafficA large boat dockedNick & Tim with Lake Como in the backgroundBoat storage along the southern shore of Lake Como

Day 3Brunate, IT

Climbing to Brunate

Brunate is a hamlet situated atop one of the mountains that surrond Lake Como, a hamlet near enough to Como that there is a funicular that runs at almost all hours of the day. Taking the ride to the top provided us with panoramic views of the lake and surrounding region as a whole. Bars such as the one found in the Bellavista hotel, situated right on the pitch of the mountain, take full advantage of this view and so did we.

The funicular up to BrunateLake Como as seen from BrunateA bed and breakfast perched on a hill of BrunateVarious colorful buildingsWildfire seen from Brunate
A dark, verdant streetNick & Tim headed into the Bellavista barNick & Tim sitting at the Bellavista bar, overlooking Lake ComoTim looking out over the vistaSean taking a picture of something at the Bellavista bar
The Bellavista bar, facing away from Lake ComoThe Bellavista bar, facing away from Lake ComoThe Bellavista bar, facing away from Lake ComoInterior of Bellavista bar
Walkway towards the Bellavista hotelSigns for the Bellavista hotel & barA bed and breakfast perched on a hill of BrunateNick & Tim passing through a sparsely-vined archwayMossy rock along a winding streetA home perched on the side of the hillPlants next to a pink building as the sun emerges from behindAn archway covered in yellow and green vines over the sidewalkA steep street in Brunate with ivy-clad archways protecting the sidewalkLake Como as seen from panorama point, looking down on the Villa d'Este on the leftA bridge over the street, connecting two parts of one larger estateStickers at panorama pointHomes built atop the hills of BrunateMen watching the funicular's route back down from Brunate

Day 3Como, IT

Dinner at Crianza

Though this is a small section, I wanted to draw attention to the restaurant we ate dinner at this night, Crianza. This was hands down the best meal of the trip, with multiple courses of fresh pasta, slow cooked meat, and fantastic seafood. Definetely a spot to remember.

Eggplant ParmCavatappi with swordfish & candied peppersGrilled Octopus with beet puree

Day 4 · Departing Como for Zermatt

9/18/2024

Day 4Como, IT, Locarno, CH, Domodossola, IT, Brig, CH

Leaving Como

Since we only planned to spend one night in Como, the next morning bright and early we packed up our laundry, left the AirBNB, grabbed some coffee and croisants, and headed back to the train station to catch our first train to Locarno, CH. Locarno was only the first of 4 trains we'd have to take to get to Zermatt. First Como, IT → Locarno, CH, then Locarno, CH → Domodossola, IT, then Domodossola, IT → Brig, CH and finally Brig, CH → Zermatt, CH. Despite from Locarno to Domodossola leg being a... colorful ride on a... relaxed time table, we managed to make our tight connection to Brig with 2 minutes to spare.

Como train station"Life Electric" and several homes in Como with light cloud coverComo train stationLooking up at Bisgletscher on the trainride into ZermattA bridge overlooking the river that would form the steep valley we traveled throughThe train station in Brig for the lines on the Gotthard-Zermatt lineAll of the luggage we brought on the trip

Day 4Zermatt, CH

Arriving in Zermatt

Having seen the weather forecast for the area and understanding that Zermatt is an alpine town, we were not surprised to find the town under overcast clouds and the Matterhorn to be obscured from view when we arrived around 5pm. Our first evening in Zermatt we spent decompressing from a long day with many trains with beers before heading to saycheese! - a well known fondue restaurant in the town to close out the night.

Bahnofstrasse in the eveningSchluhmattstrasse facing south at the corner with KirchstrasseLooking up a streetFlowered railings of the Hotel JulenBell tower of ZermattNick & Tim shopping in Edelveiss Market with Sean in the reflectionA farm utility truck rolling through the streetsLooking up the Matter Vispa towards the cloud-shrouded MatterhornLooking down SchluhmattstrasseLooking up from Z'alt Hischi at duskSunset over the Zermatt valleyBahnhofstrasse at nightGrand Hotel Zermatterhof at night, highlighting the golden accents

Day 5 · Full day to explore Zermatt

9/19/2024

Day 5Zermatt, CH

Morning in Zermatt

This was the day that I was most excited for, I remember Zermatt very fondly from having visited as a child and I was excited to retrace some of my footsteps from 15 years prior. I woke up earlier then Nick or Tim and noticed blue skies through the AirBNB windows so I quickly got dressed and grabbed my camera to try to get some pictures of the, admittedly still elusive, Matterhorn in the early morning light.

A paraglider in the Zermatt valley in the morningAlpine stream that ran directly in front of our AirBNBA stone hut with a peak-obscured Matterhorn in the distanceOur AirBNBA home lit by dramatic morning lightDramatic morning light along a small side-streetThe Matterhorn shrouded in clouds in the morning lightThe bell tower of ZermattThe peak of the Matterhorn ducking out from behind cloudsTim taking a picture on the bridge above our AirBNBA field of wild grass over looking the Zermatt valley in the distanceThe Matterhorn, seen through a variety of rooftopsChalets built near our AirBNB
A small pond for a residential building with the sun peaking out from behind a treeOlder wooden balconies near Z'Alt HichiA helicopter delivering a package in the early morningSmall purple flowers in the morning lightA side street in the morning lightA side street in the morning light, with an "electric brick" passing byA side street in the morning light, with an "electric brick" taxi and pedestrians passing byA helicopter dropping a payload in the morningTim walking to the bus stop near the AirBNBLooking across the alpine stream to the MatterhornThe Matter Vispa running through a neighborhood

Day 5Zermatt → Trockener Steg

Gondola rides up the mountain

With blue skies and minimal cloud cover on our side spiting the cloudy forecast our phones threatened us with, we grabbed tickets to ride a series of trams and gondolas up to "Zermatt Glacier Paradise" but before we reached ZGP we stopped at one of the intermediary stations of Trockener Steg to admire the Matterhorn which was shedding its clouds to reveal the peak for the first time during our visit. At Trockener Steg we also realized that Gornergrat Observatory was visible from the observation platform sharing the skyline with Dufourspitze, the second highest peak of the Alps and its accompanying glaciers: Gorgergletscher, Grenzgletscher, and Monte Rosa glaciers.

The gondola line from Zermatt to FuriNick & Tim in the gondola to FuriNick looking up the line towards FuriA man carrying skis up to Zermatt Glacier ParadiseThe Furi-Trockener Steg tram approaching the Furi stationSean taking a picture on the Gondola between Furi and Trockener Steg
Panorama from the viewing balcony of Trockener Steg looking out over to Gornergrat observatory, Gornergletscher glacier, and Grenzgletscher GlacierRadio infrastructure at Trockener StegThe Furi-Trockener Steg tram departing for FuriA gondola bound for Zermatt Glacier Paradise passing in front of the MatterhornA gondola returning from Zermatt Glacier ParadiseGornergrat Observatory as seen from the tram between Furi and Trockener Steg with views of the Gornergletscher and Monte Rosa GlaciersThe view from Trockener Steg looking down towards Zermatt and farther down the valleyViews of Dufourspitze, the second highest peak in the alps, surrounded by Glenzgletscher and Monte Rosa glaciersThe Matterhorn with Theodulgletschersee Lake in the foregroundNick & Sean on the viewing balcony of Trockener Steg with the Matterhorn in the background
Sean on the viewing balcony of Trockener Steg with the Matternhorn
Group selfie near Trockener Steg with the Matterhorn
Nick on the viewing balcony of Trockener Steg with the Matterhorn in the backgroundNick & Tim on a rocky outcrop in front of the MatterhornNick & Tim near Trockener Steg with the MatterhornNick & Tim on a rocky outcrop in front of the MatterhornSean near Trockener Steg with the MatterhornSean near Trockener Steg with the MatterhornSean on a rocky outcrop in front of the MatterhornSean near Trockener Steg with the MatterhornTim on a rocky outcrop in front of the MatterhornTim climbing up a rocky outcrop with chairlifts in the distanceTim on a rocky outcrop in front of the MatterhornNick & Tim looking down the valley towards Zermatt from the Trockener Steg observation balconyNick & Tim on a rocky outcrop in front of the MatterhornNick & Tim on a rocky outcrop in front of the MatterhornSean & Tim on a rocky outcrop in front of the MatterhornGornergrat Observatory as seen from the tram between Furi and Trockener StegNick overlooking Grenzgletscher Glacier from Trockener Steg observation balconyNick & Tim climbing out on a rocky outcrop with the MatterhornThe Matterhorn shedding a layer of clouds near its peakSean & Tim on a rocky outcrop in front of the MatterhornNick & Tim on a rocky outcrop in front of the MatterhornNick & Tim on the viewing balcony of Trockener Steg with the Matterhorn in the backgroundSean on a rocky outcrop in front of the MatterhornSean on a rocky outcrop in front of the Matterhorn

Day 5Trockener Steg → Zermatt Glacier Paradise

Climbing to the top of the alps

Satisfied with Trockener Steg's offerings, we continued to climb further into the Alps, reaching Zermatt Glacier Paradise at the top of a neighboring peak which strattles the Swiss-Italian border and offering glacier skiing across said border year round. We quickly made our way to the observation platform at the top of the station, catching the last view of Trockener Steg from above before clouds crashed over the mountain ridge and obscured our view. Content with our observations we headed in for lunch and then into the Glacier Palace. The Glacier Palace is a segment of the glacier at the top of this mountain which has been carved out to act as an art exhibition for ice sculptures, a slide, a view into a glacial crevase, and at times a bar.

Trams running between Trockener Steg and Zermatt Glacier ParadiseTrams running between Trockener Steg and Zermatt Glacier ParadiseTrams running between Trockener Steg and Zermatt Glacier ParadiseA tram returning from Zermatt Glacier Paradise with Dufourspitze and its accompanying glaciers in the distanceThe gondola line climbing into the misty heights of Zermatt Glacier ParadiseThe gondola line up to Zermatt Glacier Paradise, hidden in the fogTim facing out over the valley from the observation platform at Zermatt Glacier ParadiseNick with the pillar of stickers at the observation platform of Zermatt Glacier ParadiseThe sticker pillar at the observation platform of Zermatt Glacier ParadiseNick placing a sticker on the pillar of stickers on the observation platform at Zermatt Glacier ParadiseThe view of Trockener Steg from the observation platform at Zermatt Glacier ParadiseThe entrance to the observation platform at Zermatt Glacier ParadiseThe observation platform at Zermatt Glacier ParadiseWorkers inspecting something on the side of Zermatt Glacier Paradise, being supported by a crane-gantryGroup selfie from the observation platform of Zermatt Glacier Paradise
Group selfie in the tunnel leading down to Glacier Palace
Sean taking a picture from the tunnels of the Glacier Palace
The tunnel to Glacier PalaceSean pointing at an ice sculpture of cows
Nick standing in the crevase visible at the Glacier PalaceA Buddha statue with coins pressed into the ice surrounding itAn ice sculpture of a man using a well, the well is full of a variety of currenciesAn ice sculpture of a man using a well, the well is full of a variety of currenciesNick & Tim with a crevase in the backgroundAn ice sculpture of the MatterhornAn ice sculpture of birds of prey

Day 5Zermatt Glacier Paradise → Zermatt

Returning to Zermatt

Having had our fill of high-alpine excitement we headed back down to Zermatt. Once back in town we grabbed some more postcards, gelato, and tickets to ride the Gornergrat railway.

Gandegghütte as seen from the gondola between Trockener Steg and Zermatt Glacier Paradise
Gornerbach stream running down from Gornergletscher glacier in the distanceSean turing real, actual CHF into a souveneir bill
A Zermatt-Furi tram with technician testing the lines
The Matter Vispa right as it begins to cut through townA narrow segment of Bahnofstrasse with a variety of flower-adorned balconiesColorful window boxes along a streetA colorful street looking up the valley at several homesA shop on Bahnhofstrasse adorned with bright pink flowersA couple walking down a side streetA building among the fir trees at the shore of Matter VispaNick & Tim in line for GelatoA street-side cafeLooking down Bahnhofstrasse in the early afternoonThe Hotel Zermatterhof

Day 5Zermatt → Gornergrat

Gornergrat Railway

We elected to ride the railway up to Gornergrat rather than the hike we had initally picked out due to both weather and sheer difficulty that I hadn't accounted for. This is a cog railway which at times climbs at quite impressive grades up to Gornergrat observatory. Arriving at the observatory we couldn't believe our eyes nor our luck. The Matterhorn had reemerged from earlier cloud cover to provide us with an incredibly dramamic vista while a snowstorm blew in from the south-east.

Sean taking a picture out of the Gornergrat railway
Sean leaning out of a window of the Gornergrat railway
Tim leaning out of the Gornergrat railwayThe Matterhorn looming over a neighborhood of ZermattNick leaning out of the Gornergrat railwayTim looking out ahead of the path the Gornergrat railway is takingNick leaning to be "vertical" to demonstrate the grade that the Gornergrat railway is takingA man hiking down from Gornergrat to Riffelberg across a high-alpine fieldGroups of hikers hiking down from Gornergrat to Riffelberg across a high-alpine fieldGornergrat railway passing through a bend in an evergreen forestPassing another car headed back down the mountain on the Gornergrat railwayThe Gornergrat railway above the treelineThe Gornergrat railway above the treelineThe end of the line for the Gornergrat railwaySean taking a picture of the Matterhorn
Sean holding his camera with Gornergrat observatory and a partially-obscured Matternhorn in the distance
Sean taking a picture at Gornergrat with the Grenzgletscher glacier in the background
Scaffolding supporting one of the observatory towers of Gornergrat observatoryChapelle du Gornergrat Bernhard von Aosta backset to an incoming snowstormAn alpine lake to the north of Gornergrat observatory with Gabelhorngletscher glacier in the backgroundSean at the base of Gornergrat with the MatterhornTim at the base of Gornergrat with the MatterhornNick kicking a rock off the step side of the mountain, towards Monte Rosa GlacierGroup selfie at Gornergrat with the Matterhorn in the distance
A storm encroaching on the Matterhorn in the late afternoon sunNick taking a picture of Gornergletscher Glacier with several cairnsVarious silhouettes against the rough, rocky skylineSeveral cairns marking the route between Gornergrat and Hohtälli peakA man silhouetted against the incoming stormThe Matterhorn framed through a windowA snow storm cascading over the ridge of the Zermatt valley, threatening to obscrue the MatterhornThe Matterhorn, partially obscured with clouds, and one of the observatory towers of Gornergrat ObservatoryA snow storm cascading over the ridge of the Zermatt valley, threatening to obscrue the MatterhornThe Matterhorn as seen from Gornergrat rail stationA storm decending on the Zermatt valley with the Gornergrat observatory in the foregroundTim with Gornergrat observatory and the Matterhorn in the distanceNick kicking a rock off the step side of the mountain, towards Monte Rosa GlacierA storm encroaching on the Matterhorn in the late afternoon sunThe Matterhorn as seen from Gornergrat rail stationGornergrat Observatory jutting out of the rocky slopeTim silhouetted against the sky with Monte Rosa glacier in the backgroundTim checking out a radio antenna north of GornergratNick & Tim in front of the Gornergrat observatoryA neat rock formation near Gornergrat, with a interpeak trail markerA trailsign at GornergratGornergrat Observatory with Unter Gabelhorn in the backgroundThe snow/rain storm pushing in towards Zermatt
Chairlift station atop Hohtälli peak

Day 5Zermatt, CH

Evening activities

After getting chased down the mountain by snow we closed out our last evening in Zermatt with dinner at Theodors Stuba, a Swiss restaurant, another round of drinks, and a walk back to the AirBNB. On the walk back we noticed the Matterhorn in the night had no clouds, so we stopped to take some long exposure shots of the mountain backed by stars.

Nick definetly not leaving the McDonald's in ZermattA long exposure shot of the Matterhorn at nightSean sitting in a field, taking a long exposure picture of the Matterhorn
Sean & Tim sitting in a field taking long-exposure shots of the Matterhorn
Tim looking up at the Matterhorn at night

Day 6 · Zermatt to Zurich

9/20/2024

Day 6Zermatt, CH

Leaving Zermatt

We wasted no time this morning getting up, packing, and getting the AirBNB ready for us to check out. As we leave the AirBNB, we realize we have barely enough time to make it to the train station and book it there. We make the train to Visp with 2 minutes to spare. After transferring in Visp we arrived in Zurich around 2pm.

The Matterhorn with early morning light and the moonThe Matterhorn in the early morningSean at the bus station near our AirBNBSean & Tim at the bus station near our AirBNBNick & Tim at the bus station near our AirBNBThe Matterhorn behind a series of buildings in the morning lightA series of balcony planters in the morning lightThe flowered balconies of the Hotel Julen before the first morning light had reached themA cat wandering around near our AirBNBThe Mt. Fuji-Matterhorn sister railways sign A series of balcony planters in the morning lightA home catching the first of the morning light in the valley

Day 6Zurich, CH

Exploring Zurich

After some decompressing in the room we head out to explore the Altstadt neighborhood, the tourist district. From there we headed to the Beyer clock museum which collects clocks from as early as the 12th century up to cold war era spy watches. From there we grab a beer and split a schnitzel at a Bierhalle before heading back to the hotel to plan our evening. We head to Weinstub 1923 for dinner (more schnitzel) and finish the night at Urania Observatory's panorama bar to grab a drink and admire the Zurich skyline.

A clock designed to model stellar bodies movingA clock in the shape of a clock salespersonA clock designed to appear as though it's within a bottle of liquorA clock that would fire a small canon at noonA wristwatch in the shape of an eyeA watch featuring a barking dog elementA tram passing through Bahnhofstrasse in Zurich's shopping districtA flower shop and an attendent setting up her displaysA woman and her baby sitting at the base of a fountainA man running across tram lines at the Central stop in ZurichSean preseting the Weissbier we all ordered at dinner

Day 7 · Full day in Zurich

9/21/2024

Day 7Zurich, CH

Morning Exploration

For our full day in Zurich we started out by taking the Dolderbahn, a cog railway that climbs a 'mountain' in the city of Zurich. While the area was quite pretty, the neighborhood as a whole felt a bit too ritsy for our tastes and after trying out one of the public drinking fountains of Zurich we made our way back down the line. Next up we wanted to check out the Grossmünster, a 12th century church that still dominates the skyline. While we weren't allowed in, the structure itself was still striking. Waiting for our next activity, the tram museum, to open we grabbed some aperol spritzes in a garden bar.

The Dolderbahn car approaching Römerhof stationNick & Tim looking back down the Dolderbahn railwayA new wing of the Dolder Grand hotelA group of players crossing a golf courseRooftops of a neighborhood near the Dolderbahn with the first hints of fall in the surrounding treesThe Grand Dolder HotelWaldhaus Dolder stationLooking down Kirchgasse towards GrossmünsterLooking down Kirchgasse towards GrossmünsterAnti-vax graffitiManessebrunnen, a horse statue-clad drinking fountainNick using a Swiss phone boothNick using one of the 1,200 drinking water fountains around ZurichLooking down from Grossmünster towards Quaibrücke bridgeThe towers of GrossmünsterPedestrians navigating the Römerhof tram stopA woman waiting for the tram at the Römerhof tram stopA vespa passing by at the Römerhof tram stopTim sitting in a garden plaza with Aperol SpritzesTerrace garden plaza around middayPedestrians near the LimmatLooking down Kurhausstrasse towalds Waldhaus Dolder stationHechtplatzbrunnen drinking fountainA drinking fountain at the intersection of Kurhausstrasse and SonnenbergstrasseA woman exploring the Zurich tram museumSean sitting in a historic bar car of a train from the 1930s

Day 7Zurich, CH

Evening Exploration

For our last night in Europe we headed to the Lindt factory in Zurich and while tours were sold out for the day, the shop itself was quite impressive. From there, knowning we had an early start to a long day ahead of us, we headed to a Bierhalle to grab drinks and dinner before heading back to the hotel to pack and prepare for the 12 hour flight coming that morning.

The face of the Lindt chocolate factorySean approaching the Lindt factory entrance
A stack of truffles inside of the Lindt factoryChocolatiers at Lindt providing live demonstrationsSunset filtered through the overhead cables for trams and busses at BürkliplatzA lake-tour boat docking at Bürkliplatz at duskLooking down the Limmat and Limmatquai at duskTim looking over Lake Zurich towards the Swiss AlpsLooking down Niederdorfstrasse towards Rheinfelder Bierhalle at night

Day 8 · Leaving Europe

9/22/2024

Day 8ZRH Airport

Leaving Europe

Taken on the jet bridge before be boarded the flight back to the US

Group selfie on the jet bridge before boarding our flight to the US